Radio Glitch
Written by NOOB

To reduce glitching...there are some easy and inexpensive ways to do this. and some more expensive...first for the inexpensive.. you need to purchase heat shrink from either your LHS or Local auto parts store ( usually cheaper )they are available in different diameters for different purposes. First cut it to the lengths of your brake and throttle linkages...slide it over and apply heat. this will eliminate the metal to metal contact thereby reducing glitches...also you can cut a larger diameter tube that will fit over both of your servo wiring and you can insulate those as well...not only adding protection to them from stone assault and insulating them to further to reduce glitching but it also keeps them together and we all know that a clean wiring job is essential.

Make sure that all of your metal to metal screws, nuts..etc..are loc-tite'd this provides insulation against glitches and keeps them from falling out.

Last but not least the more expensive addition to this would be to purchase a FM Radio system as they have a clearer signal without the glitching..do all of this and you can be assured that when you hit that pole at 40+ MPH that it wasn't glithes that put you there...but maybe one of the posts that you didn't read that will follow

Find BDC Every Time
Written by: Zack

Time 15 minutes
Difficulty: Easy
Equipment:
-Knife

How:
When your motor is hot the sleeve has expanded, and the entire motor is a slightly different shape. After things cool, that sleeve can get very tight, especially on our Hyper motors. If your piston is not at the bottom of the sleeve by the time things cool off, you are putting a lot of extra stress on the sleeve. It won't happen overnight, but your sleeve will definitely wear out faster.

The obvious question is how do you know when the piston is at the bottom? or BDC?

Remove your pull start. If you look into the hole on the back plate where the starter shaft pokes through, you can see just a little of the crank and rod. Turn the motor under the rod is vertical and your as close to BDC as you can. Now hold the flywheel in place and turn the motor around to facing you. Use a sharp knife to scribe the top of the flywheel. I make 3 cuts all very close together. Its not much, but you can see it if your looking for it.

Now as soon as your truck shuts off, turn the flywheel so you can see that mark at the top. Its as easy as that.

Save Your Antenna Wire
Written by Partbreaker

Put an strain relief on the antenna between the receiver and the plastic hole the antenna tube goes into. you can use an old servo arm, cut it off and loop the wire through one hole and back through another. that keeps the antenna from getting pulled out of the receiver. (usually happens at full throttle upside down)

Zip Ties?
AR RC Racer

You mean like zip-ties (also called wire ties) on the cooling head to prevent scratches when you flip over? Also use them as handles for your body clips and fuel tank lid.

CVD Pin Retainer
Written by TeamGrinder

This is a little trick to drastically lower your centre of gravity, you may need a dremel or a similar roto tool with a carving or small grinding bit. remove your shocks and install then upside down which brings the weight of the shock body and the shock oil lower which greatly improves stability and handling, however there is a small sacrifice for the better performance, which is slightly higher rate of wear on you shock shafts but I think that the Ofna blatters may fix that problem because Shock-socks do, you may need to grind out a little bit of material from you lower suspension arms so the shocks will fit upside down, make sure you don't take too much off though. try fitting the shocks before you dremel anything, I also believe that the Ofna buggies come with a little steel thingy that goes on the arm to raise the shock off the arm if your car has that you may not need to grind anything

Polishing the chassis and other aluminum parts
Written by: Seanrot

What you will need:
1. Easy off oven cleaner, follow the directions on the can
2. 320, 600, and 1000 grit sand paper (get at an automotive store)
3. hand orbital sander
4. spray adhesive (to get the sand paper from the auto store to stick to the orbital sander
5. aluminum wheel polish
6. Old towel

What you do:
1. Spray the oven cleaner on the chassis. Follow the directions on the can. It will take off most of the anodization for you.
2. Sand the chassis with the 600 grit. If you have any spots that don't want to come off use the 320. Then the 600. Finish off with the 1000 grit paper. At this point it will not be shiny but it will be smooth.
3. Finally take the aluminum polish and the old towel and polish the chassis. BTW this is a lot quicker if you use the orbital sander over the towel.

Total time should be less than three hours.

here is what it looks like.

Winterize Your Truck
Written by: Nitro Soda

summer's winding down and it's time for some bashing in the snow (I love winter, can ya tell??). some may remember this post from the years past but this time it will lack the pictures and waterproofing of the servo circuit boards then selves (no time to type all that right now...sorry. maybe a lil later I'll add that in.)

this is SO easy yet I don't see too many people doing it!

put EVERYTHING that's electronic in balloons! (even double up the balloons). I used to put zip ties on the balloon necks but you can do more damage trying to clip off the zip tie if you nick a servo wire instead so I don't do this anymore.

things to put in balloons to add to the water resistant of the electronics.

1.RX pack
2. the RX itself
3. servos (yes even servos)
4. ON/OFF switch.

I like my RX packs in balloons just for the rubber coating. plus I make my own battery packs so this makes it more forgiving if I didn't get the shrink wrap just right.

RX. this is a no brainier! you want your RX to be dry and not rattle around. this also helps keep the x-tal in and if it does fall out, it's not lost. it's inside the balloon!

Servo's. people give my truck some pretty weird looks when they see my servos in balloons. (esp when I use weird colored balloons). but I like the idea of having them more resistant to fuel spills and water when bashing threw that puddle ya didn't know was there. it's a little added peace of mind (even though most good servos claim to be "waterproof"). (I put the horn on right over the balloon...no need to poke holes in it)

the switch! ever seen those "switch covers"?? a quick look at these things and you know they are pretty much worthless... better than nothing sure, but not better than a balloon or 2. actually the best protection for the switch is prolly the switch cover installed over or under an installed balloon. (cause balloons rip after a while). I do this cause a switch is just that, it connects your RX battery to the RX and servos. so if it gets wet it can be like pulling your battery out of your truck!!! who wants that?!?!?

(note that I never claimed anything to be waterproof after doing this tip. I believe very little of anything is truly waterproof. if it is waterproof NOW, give it a little time and punishment... it will leak..water's funny like that)

Cleaning Your Truck
Written by:ACE

The BEST method is to hose it down

Hears how to do it:
1. Take off the wheels and the bearings in the bearing carriers
2. Remove all the batts and servos and reviver (ALL electric stuff E.G. lights)
3. Remove the air filter and cover it tightly with something
4: Remove engine (optional)
Now that u have done the perpetration u can do the cleaning

Steps on how to clean it:
1. First drench it in degreaser, the liquid kind, NOT AEROSOL (OPTIMAL)
2. Get a hose and wash down
3. Then leave in the sun to dry
4. Put some sort of oil on parts that can rust (I use 3-in-1)
5. Re-install all the electronics
6. Drive

That is what I do
It cleans better than any other method

Couple of Brazing Tips
Written By Scott Sobczak
Scott.S@Monster-Style.com
www.Team-KCM.com

After brazing for the last few months...I figured I'd post a few tips for it.

#1. Get used to it....and make sure you "practice" it for a few weeks before you start a new chassis. The more you practice, the quicker things will go.

#2. Have a small bucket of water next to you when you are working...this will help in a few ways: If you burn your hands accidentally, you can put em' in the water, or, if you are brazing and a piece falls off and you don't want to wait for it to cool down, you can dip it in the water for faster cooling. (HOWEVER....do not dip a freshly brazed joint into the water to cool down the actual brazing itself, because this will weaken the joint since it cools down very rapidly)

#3. Working with a tough to braze area? Take your brazing rod and braze some of the rod onto the place that you want to add a link. Then, take that link and hold it next to the place you just brazed, then heat it up and the brass should flow over the new link as well as the old place you originally had it. This way, you don't have to switch from brazing rod in one hand and link in the other in a tight spot.

Shock Bleeding and Setup
Written by: HolmWrecker

Hi, here's how I've been doing my shocks for years now, I'll assume you have the shocks empty and sitting in front of you.

Pull the shaft down all the way, fill the shock with oil about 3/4 of the way up. Slowly move the shaft up and down, making sure that the piston does not come up out of the oil, this will release any air under the piston (you will see the bubbles).

Then with the piston all the way down, fill with selected oil to the top of the shock body. Screw the cap on just a little bit (like 1 thread), now slowly push the the shaft up as far as it will (so piston is at the top of the body), some of the oil will come out at the cap, this is ok.

Now screw the cap down while holding the shaft in place, if the shaft try's to go down while you screw on the cap, loosen and try it again (it may take a few times to get it).

Once the cap is tight, stroke the shock a few times, it should feel nice and smooth (if there's too much air in it, you will hear it when stroking). If it is bled correctly, when you push it all the way in (compressed) and let go it should go back out on it's own about 5 -10mm or so.
This insures that it's properly bled.

That's it!

If after bleeding the shock, the shaft does not go all the way in (suddenly stops before it bottoms out), you will need to re-bleed the shock, some times it will get too much oil in it and cause it to hydro-lock due to displacement of the shaft in the oil.

It's fairly easy, just be patient, some times a shock can be a bear to get bled right.

Also, be sure all the bladders in the shock caps are present and in place.

On selecting shock oil, Shock oil selection should be based on the type of surfaces and usage it will see, for a smooth, high traction surface or really big air go with a higher weight oil, for rough fast terrain got to lighter oil, lighter oil will let the suspension move quicker and maintain more traction, while a heavier oil will maintain better traction and reduce body roll on a high traction or smooth surface. A heavier oil will also prevent bottoming out on big air to a certain point.

Proper Care of Battery Packs
Written by:Joey

If you have a fully charged battery pack and use only a portion of the power, do not re-charge it until the battery has been fully discharged. If a battery is charged after only some use, it can shorten the life of that pack and not run as long as it should. However, this really depends on the type of cell. NiCd cells should be fully discharged on a regular basis to avoid the cells developing a memory. If they are to be stored it should also be a discharged state. NiMH cells require different care. They do NOT develop memory so they can be left with a charge. In fact, they should be stored with around 50% charge in them. A deep discharge is only required occasionally.

Make Your Battery/Receiver Box Water Resistant
Written By Mercenario27

I could say water proof, but nothing is truly water proof.
Supplies need:
1. Exacto Knife
2. RV Sealant
3. Plastic Wrap

Step One
Clean your Battery/Receiver box with mild detergent and dry

Step Two
Apply a small bread of RV Sealant around the base of the box were the top meets. Place a piece of plastic wrap over the RV Sealant. Then lightly put the cover on the box. Let dry for a couple hours

Step Three
Remove lid and peal plastic wrap from bottom half. Trim excess RV Sealant. Now you box is water resistant

*note I used red sealant just for this tech tip so that it would show up in the pictures. I would normally use black to match the box so that it doesn't look so messy

Locked Rear Diff
Written by Mercenario27
Packing the differential with grease locks the axle, providing equal power to both wheels no matter what the truck drives over. If you’re building a Monster Truck for straight-line sand drags, hill climbing or pulling, you can pack the rear differential with a grease for increased traction. Packing the differential with grease is reversible and will not do any damage to the rear differential, unlike the other methods; hot glue, epoxy, fuel line.

Nitro Motor Tuning Basics
[Printer Friendly Version]
Topic: R/C Cars
Category: Tips
ArticleID: 959
Date: 5/12/2003 6:01:00 PM
Written By: WildHobbies

Once upon a time Nitro motors were considered too complex and too much maintenance for first-time R/C buyers. Now a days, the market is full of ready-to-run (RTR) nitro powered vehicles. With everything from race legal on-road sedans to large off-road monster trucks, if there is a vehicle genre you like, there is a nitro vehicle for you. But how do you tune these "mysterious" Nitro Methane breathing powerplants?

The answer isn't actually that complicated when you break it down into logical pieces. That is what we are going to attempt to do here.

Required tools

- Screwdriver
- Cup of water
- Temperature Gun (optional)
- Patience

The Basics

A Glow Engine is a 2-Stroke internal combustion motor very similar to what you would find on a small motorcycle, lawnmower, weed eater, etc. Instead of gasoline, a glow engine uses a fuel that is a mixture of Nitro Methane, Ethyl Alcohol, and Castor Oil. Each brand will slightly vary the ingredients. You will also see varying percentage levels such as 10%, 20%, 30%. The percentage rating is the amount of Nitro Methane in the fuel. Most manufacturers recommend using 15% - 20% Nitro content.

Idle Adjustment
All nitro engines have an idle adjustment screw. This adjust the motor speed when the throttle is in the idle position. If it is set too fast, the tires will want to move. If it is set to low, the engine will cut off. The factory setting is usually right on, but if you need to adjust it, you want the throttle opening to be about 1/8" at idle speed.

If you are new to nitro motors, you may easily get the impression that the motor is always running too fast. If the motor is actually running too fast, the clutch will be engaging and causing the tires to turn. You want an idle position that is as slow as you can get without the motor

Nitro TC3 Idle Screw

shutting off. In most cases, the factory setting is right on as you want the throttle opening in the carb to be right around 1mm. This is not likely to need adjustment.

Low Speed Adjustment
If your carburetor has a low-speed adjustment needle like show on the Nitro TC2 motor to the right, this needle is used to adjust the fuel mixture when the throttle is between 0 - 50%. This is the needle to be adjusting if your motor is difficult to start. Some motors are very sensitive to this setting and a difference of a 1/4 turn may be the difference between good performance and not being able to get your motor to start at all. Once you have this needle set, you should rarely, if ever, need to adjust it again. Turning the screw

Nitro TC3 Low Speed Needle

clockwise will lean the setting while counter clockwise will richen the fuel mix. A good method of testing the low speed adjustment is to get the motor up to operating temperature and pinch off the fuel line that goes from the fuel tank to the motor. If the motor dies abruptly in under 3 seconds, the low speed setting is too lean, if it takes 4-5 second or longer to die, then the low speed setting is too ruch.

High Speed Adjustment
The high speed needle adjust the air/fuel mix when the throttle is between 50% - 100%. This is the needle you will be adjusting to get the top performance out of your car.

If the high speed adjustment is too rich, you will hear a chugging sound when romping on the throttle before the motor revs up and takes off. If the setting is too lean, the motor may sound like it is slowing down or hesitating before revving up.

Nitro TC3 High Speed Needle

Single Needle Carbs
Some motors only have a single needle adjustment which means the low-speed and high-speed are eliminated by a single setting. While this is easier than a dual-needle setup, it is not as efficient as you often are sacrificing acceleration for top speed or vice versa.

The best way to tune these is too start with as rich of a setting as you can get the motor to start under and keep leaning it out 1/8 of a turn at a time until you find the motor's sweet spot.

Terra Crusher Single Needle Adjustment

Is It Set Right?
The best way to tell if the motor is tuned properly is by testing the temperature of the motor. Each motor is a little different so consult the motor's owner's manual or website to find out what the optimum temperature of the motor is. This is usually between 230 - 260 degrees. There are some motors that run under that range and even some that prefer hotter temperatures, so again, check with the motor manufacturer.

Without a temp gun, how can you tell if the motor is too hot or cold? One simple way is to put a drop of water o the cylinder head. If it evaporates in 5 seconds or less, the motor is too hot and needs to be richened up (counter clockwise adjustment of the high speed needle). If the water takes longer than 7 seconds to evaporate, the motor is too cool and can be leaned out After each adjustment, run the vehicle as you normally do for at least 2 minutes before adjusting it again in order for the temperature to equalize. Always make small adjustments, never more than 1/8 of a turn at a time.

Trouble Shooting
Your sitting there yanking on the pull start for an hour and getting blisters on your hands and your motor still wont start. What do you do? The best thing to do is to put your settings back to a point where the engine "should" run even if poorly. First, make sure the idle adjustment isn't set too low, make sure there is at least a 1/8" gap for air to flow through in the throttle body. If the idle adjustment is not at fault, then the low speed

mixture needs to be adjusted. Start by turning the low-speed needle (or single needle adjustment screw) all the way clockwise until it stops, be sure to not tighten this screw down. Next turn the screw counter-clockwise 2 1/2 turns. Almost all motors will start within a 1/2 turn of this neutral setting. To test the low-speed setting once the motor is running, pinch the fuel line. If the motor dies within 2 seconds or less, the low speed setting is too lean. If the motor take 4 second or more to stop, the setting is too rich.

Rules of Thumb
While every motor is a little different and will take a little effort to get dialed in perfectly, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, it is always better to run a motor rich than have it be too lean. If a motor is run too lean, it will run hotter and wear out the components quicker.

Secondly, keep in mind that at the temperatures these engines run at, they can easily cause nasty burns. Always think safety.

Remember that when you adjust a setting, the motor needs to run for at least 30 seconds for the motor temperature to adjust to the new settings before you can tell if that setting works better or worse.

The single most important thing when tuning a nitro motor is patience. Take your time, learn the "personality" of your new motor and soon will have it dialed in and working perfectly.

Handles on Body clips
Written by Lennydude

Monster Pirate and Dominator Section

Improve Your MP/Dom Ground Clearance
Written By Mike Lupe
Email
Use 2 lower rear shock mounts for the RC10T3 to gain approximately 10mm of ground clearance. Remove the shocks from the lower A-Arms. Place the GT shock mounts in the arms where the shocks were. Now reinstall the shocks and your ready to go.

Associated Rear Shock Mount T3 #7341

Bulk Head Repair Trick
Written by Ace

I have done this to my truck and I am sure it would work on others besides just a Monster Pirate.

I broke my lower rear bulk head or differential support bracket, what every you what to call it. And I wanted to repair it while I waited for parts. So what I did was the following.

1: Remove the broken lower control arm and shock.

2: Trim/grind the bulk head pivots flat, remove any points that stick out past the main upright with a dremel tool or equivalent.

3: Drill four 1/16 holes at the edges of where the original loops were located. Use the lower control arm as a guide.

4: Install four small self tapping eyelets into the holes. These need to be as close to the size of the lower control arm pin as possible. I used picture frame hangers. Cost - 59 cents.

5: Re-assemble the truck and drive like hell.

I ran my truck very hard after the repair, jumping it at the track and everything else you could imagine. I even broke a lower control arm on the repaired side without effecting this cheap repair a bit. In a pinch? Give it a try.

Rear Center Dogbone fix
Written by MBX4rr Racer

I know a lot of people have problems with the center rear dogbone. It twists and bends itself out of shape pretty easily.
I found a fix for this.
U need to buy a rear center universal for the Mugen MBX4xr It will probably cost u about 30 dollars.. and u also need a long drive cup. I find the Ofna ones for the gt-lx or the mugen mbx rr drive cups work well because they are longer than the stock MP ones.
This is a very beefy center drive shaft, plus its a universal so it provides some added driveline smoothness.

I think this is a better, cheaper alternative to unlimited engineering center dogbones.

The part number on the long Mugen drive cup is C0255

Notes about OFNA Aluminum Lower Front Arms
Written by Bloodclod

The PROBLEM:

Broke my lower front arm on my Dominator so I replaced it with the OFNA aluminum one.

What I discovered was that the stock knuckle didn't really work well with the new arm. The reason is that the arm is slightly raised where it attaches to the knuckle and that portion binds when attached.

The result is that you will not be able to utilize the full length of your shock - you basically end up with your a-arms level at best because of the binding.

I picked up the aftermarket replacement knuckles which appeared to fix the problem and the arms had full reach now...

BUT...

I discovered that even with that setup, the steering would bind when the shock was at full extension (this is the long hyper7 shock that comes with the DOM). You won't get more than 15 degrees steering. The steering only improves when you adjust the arms to an almost level position. I put a 10mm spacer in my shock and that seems to have shortened the shock enough.

It's a pity I can't use the shock's full travel though... but I guess the truck is supposed to ride at about "arms-level" height.

The SOLUTION

I dremeled out some material from the stock knuckle (45 mins was all it took!) and the results were fantastic - no more binding in steering or suspension movement.

Here are some pics of my modified knuckle:


Rear view	Outer view	Front View


Inner view	Top View

SHIMMING of the DIFF
Written by Olfajarley

.....first off that "crackle" sound is your ring gear
slipping across the pinion gear.
second when I refer to the "diff " I am talking about the assembly
that holds the planetary gears that the 2 allen head screws go through
to hold on the ring gear....that whole big metal thing with the 2 shafts sticking out
that is the "diff"......
when I talk about the "diff housing" I am referring to the plastic case
that the diff and ring&pinion are all in......the thing that is between the 2 bulkheads.....
ya with me.....ok now to get to business

I am going to explain to you the whole "theory" behind the crackle
and why it happens......this way in the future you can trouble shoot
and get a good feeling of what you are doing

ok when you hit your brake what is happening is that your are getting resistance
from the brake disc that's slows your drive shafts which are putting resistance
on the pinion gear (if you fully engage your brake that pinion gear isn't going to turn at all)
which puts resistance on your ring which is attached to the diff which goes through
the drive cups to the CVA's to your wheels

now with that in mind lets concentrate on the diff housing (yes the plastic thing)
when your drive train gets a quick hard brake or a quick throttle blip
it causes an ungodly amount of force on the ring and pinion ......

now this is the good part

what happens is the ring tries to pull away from the pinion gear
( and with the diff attached to the ring it moves also) and with the diff housing
being made of plastic it gives a little, and allows the ring
to become unseated from the pinion causing the crackle

now to fix it:
take the diff housing apart. take the drive cups off and the bearings off the diff
... now you want to add some little washers (shims) between the bearing and the diff
(ONLY DO THIS TO THE SIDE OF THE DIFF THAT HAS THE SMOOTH PART OF THE RING GEAR FACING IT)
also through a shim or 2 in between the pinion gear shaft and the bearing
(ONLY IF THERE IS PLAY .it should be pretty snug but still spin with no resistance)
put an ass ton of marine grease in it

now throw it all back together and do these steps BEFORE you fire it up

--roll the truck around on the floor and make sure it roles smooth
(it might be a little stiff but that's ok .......you are checking for binding)

--make sure you put the RED LOCK TIGHT on ALL the grub screws
that hold the drive cups in place there are a total of 8 on the whole truck

--do this procedure to BOTH diffs

remember this is a tricky process.....
kind of hit and miss type of deal so if you don't get it on the first try don't get frustrated
......the ring and pinion cost a total of $100
to get all new ones for your truck so it worth taking your time

Rear CVDs
Written by Mercenario27
This is what I did to put CVAs in the rear of my Monster Pirate converted Dominator. Don't forget to shim the diff


Ofna CVA Joints 8MM Axle Pair Pirate	Ofna Joint Cap Dog bone 2-Pieces
I think the New Dominators are now using the Ultra Series Adjustable Style Universals Ofna Front Half Shaft (1 Pair) # 18026 Ofna Universal Joints (1 Pair) # 18027

Boil Your Plastic Parts
Written by anothermdbusted

Boil the body post in water for like 2 hours. make sure you do it in a old pan. the reason for doing this is it makes it so the part is use to a moisture content in them and makes them a little softer so they don't snap as easy
Boil the rims also for 2 hours same as above. for all of you who know that when you smack a wall and you look at the rim and it cracked this will cure that trust me I've cracked three rims not boiled until I did this and now its no big.

Servo Saver
Written by anothermdbusted

If your racing install a washer above the spring to add tension to the servo saver spring, as it being in stock form it is to soft, if you come into a corner hard and fast like I do

Dominator Shock Set-Up
Written by David Davis

If you are using the stock Hyper 7 shocks; start by hand drilling the piston hole with a #55 number drill. Then start with 40wt front and 35 wt rear oil with something like the Ofna 9.5 blue springs. If the track is really smooth/very high jumps then go to like 40-45wt front/35-40 rear with white springs. You could also try Trinity Black or purple springs for the Terra Crusher. Its common to run a little lighter oil in the rear ;so that coming out of corners the weight transfers faster for traction. If you vehicle is bouncing then the oil is usually too thick because of pack (not rebounding before next bump) try to find compromise that make you overall fast rather than just one section. You need to match heavier oils with heavier spring Try running rear sway-bar unless the track is very bumpy.

2-Speed calculations
Written by VRHalo

48/52 with 11/15 = 4.3636.../3.4666...
48/52 with 12/16 = 4/3.25

52/56 with 11/15 = 4.7272.../3.7333...
52/56 with 12/16 = 4.33.../3.5

56/60 with 11/15 = 5.0909.../4
56/60 with 12/16 = 4.666..../3.75

The closer you get to 1:1 the faster the ratio is

On the inside, just where it goes from the angle to the straight, either side of the slits for the bones. This angle is quite sharp, I just ran the dremel over it until it was smooth and no longer was binding (even at full travel)
I tried to highlight the area, but it's hard to see the point i'm talking about cause it's all black

Traxxas Nitro Rustler

Beef up the Turnbuckles
Written by Steve
Email
www.ssrcracing.com

Replace the stock rod ends with longer rod ends to beef up the turnbuckles. Use Parma Heavy Duty Rod Ends #12802

Install Balloons on the inside of the Shocks
Written by Steve
Email
www.ssrcracing.com

Step1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Real Simple. Its a lot easier then trying to stretch a balloon over the shock spring

Add Bearings to Steering Bell Crank and Connect the Upper Deck to the Lower Chassis
Written by Steve
Email
www.ssrcracing.com

If you have the stock plastic upper deck there is a way to connect the bottom chasses to the upper deck through the steering posts. This makes the truck a whole lot more rigid and eliminates flex quite a bit!!! An aluminum upper deck will totally eliminate flex and makes the chasses very rigid !

You will need:
- (2) 5 x 8 x .5 mm trx fiber washers part # 1985
- (4) 5 x 8 x 2.5 mm bearings part # 2728 (reference only, any brand bearing will do!)
- (2) 3x6x1.5 mm aluminum spacers part # 2539
- (2) 3 x 6 x 3.8 mm aluminum spacers part # 2539
- (2) 3 x 20 mm counter sink philips head screws (counter sink alloy hex head, best choice)
- and some patients !!!!!

It will take a little bit of time to do this being the little parts they are, The best thing is to unhook the steering linkage from the bellcranks and remove the entire FT bulkhead. You may have to turn the truck upside down to start? here is a diagram:

Wider Stance
Written by Steve
Email
www.ssrcracing.com

1.Purchase a set of longer rear suspension arms from the SRT trx part # 3655

This will allow longer suspension travel and some stability! Plus higher speeds caused by reducing some of the toe in, in the rear. You will also need to purchase some longer tie rods 62 mm and some longer rod ends for at least one end for increased strength of the tie rod connection.

2. Move the tie rod link to the lower inside hole of the rear bulkhead.

3. REVERSE the arms from L to R for access to shock mounting holes

4. Also REVERSE the A-ARM Mounts L to R. Zero degree arms will have hardly any toe in at all and will upset straight line driving. Using the stock 1+ or - trx part # 2798 arm mounts is recommended.


Traxxas Suspension Arms Rear Part #TRX 3655	Traxxas Suspension Arm Mounts +/-1 Degree Part # TRX 2798

Helpful Downloads
Submitted by Travis Schultz
Tazz R/C Owner Website
Email

Gear Ratios for your Nitro Sport or Nitro Rustler!
Gear Ratios for your Nitro Stampede!
Calculate your speed!

Traxxas Nitro Stampede

EZ Start Blue Wire Fix
Written By Ace

PROBLEM
The EZ-Start Blue wire comes off during use.

PROBLEM FIX
you need to get a alligator clip

Shown hear only cost 50c at your local electronics store

all u need to do is cut the existing EZ-start connector off and then install the alligator clip by pushing down the metal wings.

Dual Gas Tanks
Written By Npede69

I wanted longer run times for my Nitro Stampede, but there is no aftermarket parts that allowed for the Nitro Stampede to have longer run times. Then I heard about somebody that put a T-Maxx gas tank on a Nitro Stampede. So I bought a T-Maxx gas tank, and then that’s when the idea hit me... DUAL GAS TANKS! But first I had to figure out where to put the second tank and how to hook up the tanks. Someone gave me the suggestion to do it in a system. Ok, well enough talk, lets get down to work.

Materials-
T-Maxx gas tank
Fuel Filters (2)
Fuel Tubing (26")
Drill
Drill Bit
Paint
Screws

Steps-

1) Take your stock npede tank, and some paint. Apply some paint to the legs on the gas tank (the 2 legs that are farthest from each other). Press the tank firmly against the rear chassis plate on the npede so the pressure and fuel nipple on the tank is pointing out, towards the back of the npede. You might have a little problem if you are using the MIP 360 Stinger exhaust (its going to be a little tight). Then remove the tank, and let the paint dry.

3) Remove the rear chassis plate part from the npede. There are a total of 6 screws you have to remove to get the rear chassis plate.

4) Now take your drill and the drill bit, and drill the 2 holes you marked with the paint. Clean off the rear chassis plate.

5) Take your stock gas tank and line up the holes with the legs on the gas tank. The screw heads should be on the underside of the chassis plate, so you don’t see them once you install everything back together. Screw in the 2 screws, make sure everything fits. Now u should have your stock gas tank attached to the rear chassis plate.

6) Now re-install your rear chassis plate with the gas tank attached. You might have a little problem getting it back in there. Then put the screws back in, but u will only be able to put 4 maybe 5 screws back into the rear chassis plate because the gas tank is covering up the one spot where the screws goes into the rear bulkhead.

7) Now u should have the stock gas tank installed in your npede. Check and make sure everything works, and moves around. One major thing to check is that the spur gear is not hitting on the gas tank.

8) Now its time to install the T-Maxx gas tank into the npede. You will be putting the T-Maxx tank where the old stock gas tank was.

9) Put some paint on ALL 4 legs of the T-Maxx tank, then press the T-Maxx tank down onto the chassis plate. Hold it there for about a minute, then remove the tank, clean off the legs, and let the paint dry.

10) Take your drill and your drill bit and drill where u marked the holes with the paint.

11) Place the T-Maxx tank onto the chassis, line up all the holes and put the screws in, ALL 4 screws. Now u should have your T-Maxx tank installed in your npede.

12) You will need a piece of fuel tubing that is 10" long that goes from the exhaust nipple to the pressure nipple on the T-Maxx gas tank. Next you will need a 8" piece of fuel tubing that goes from the T-Maxx fuel nipple to the pressure nipple on the stock gas tank. Then you will need a 8" piece of fuel tubing that goes from the stock fuel nipple to the carb. You can put a fuel filter in the fuel line that goes from the T-maxx tank to the stock tank, and you can put another fuel filter in the fuel line that goes from the stock gas tank to the carb.

You are done! You now have a Nitro Stampede with dual gas tanks (stock gas tank {75cc} and a T-Maxx gas tank {125cc}). Now that wasn’t too hard, plus u get longer run times. You might have to adjust the needles on the carb due to this modification, like lean out the HSN and the LSN by a 1/8 of a turn.

* I am not responsible for any damage that might happen to your R/C if you do this mod.

Traxxas Tmaxx

Gearing Your Truck
Written by Rich
www.RadRC.com
Email

Old Truck total stock nothing done or touch on 20% nitro 18 clutch bell 72 or 74 spur gear. The stock 20/72 was just a bit to much for the stock truck special to get any performance out of it in second gear.

New Truck 2.5 stock nothing change 18/72 or 18/70 on 20% nitro. With all the gearing test we have done and with all the major brand of motors from .12 to .18 the one thing was always a winner was a 18 tooth clutch bell that always came out on top no matter what you used for the spur gear. But this is also with stock size tires and in the stock form.

Performance Gain with Stock Tires
Written by Rich
www.RadRC.com
Email

We have tested with the stock tires for 6 months and what we came up with is to cut the tread down just like the real monster trucks do. This does a couple of things it lightens up the tires so the engine can spin them easer number two by cutting them down believe it or not the get more traction to the ground. What happens is when there in stock form the cleat or paddle which ever you call it actually rolls over on it self and does not grab as much dirt because it springs back and you get this hoping effect or it looks more like tire vibration. Best tire for all applications and conditions is a Pin tire We tested all the major brand tires and Proline and Panther Pin tires did a incredible job because of there light weight construction and soft rubber. The Panther tires were called the Meat grinders and I not sure what the prolines are called.

Shock Quick Release
Written by Mercenario

I thought it was difficult to remove the shocks from the Tmaxx shock towers. I would always strip out the screws on the shocks, because there is not enough room to get leverage. I bought some 4/40 steel rod, 8 pivot balls (they are the same same the ones on the bottom of the shocks), and 8 collars (like the ones on your throttle linkage)

1. Cut the rod in about 4 pieces aprox 3 inches.
2. Removed the Screws from the top of all the shocks.
3. Insert the pivot balls into the top of all 8 shocks.
4. Slide rod through the shock mounting holes on the tower.
5. Install the shocks then cap them off with the collars. Do Not forget to use tread lock on the grub screws.
6. trim any exess rod with your dreml

Broken Turnbuckles?
Written by AJ
You can fix them with if you have an other broken turnbuckle in your toolbox. All you would need a piece of 3/8 pcv tubing and a couple of zip ties. Combine the two broken turnbuckles, slide the tubing over them, then zip tie them together. It should hold out the rest of the day until Mardel's opens on Tuesday.

Help Prevent Bulk Breakage
Written by AJ
Take out your 2 bottom screws in the bumper mount and slide a paper clip threw it then bend it up. This way on those hard impacts instead of snapping a bulkhead you will bend the paper clip! Has worked for me numerous times when I cant save the truck in the air.

Broken Fuel Tank
Written By MrThrust
When ever you bust your fuel tank and can't wait until the new one comes....you can fix.....(Unless to totally smash it to bits)

1. get an old soldering iron
2. front case from an old CD cover

Find the hole (most probity a massive big crack) plug in your soldering iron and wait for it to heat up .. break of a chunk of plastic from the cd cover ...(like the corner) place it next to the crack and use the soldering iron to weld the plastic together....be careful not to go through (if u do don't worry just break of a large piece and cover and weld it to place ...

Thunder Tiger EK4

Differential Upgrade
Written by Sgt Maxx

Chewed EK4 diff gears? Try the H-7's, nobody has manages to strip them yet
in the EK4

Hyper-7 diff gear conversion for the EK4

#87001 Crown Gear #19001
#87002 Bevel Gear #19002
#87003 Diff Drive Shaft #19003
#87004 Diff case #19004
#87021 Center cup joint (2 pcs.) #19021 (this only needs to be bought once, 1 cup for front and one for rear)
#87028 Drive pinion gear #19028

You also will need (2) 8x16 bearings per diff, or you can use the ones from
the EK4 diffs

Credit for the research and Ofna Part #'s goes to JR from Midmad.com

It's a tight fix, so you may need an extra set of hand while re-assembling
the cases.

EK4 Factory Upgrade
Submitted by Rodney B.

     Ace is sending out v2 upgrade kits for the EK4. It comes with a new head, 2 complete diffs and housings, and a whole bunch of other parts. I just got mine yesterday, after I faxed them a week ago, so shipment is fast too. Here's the post from Ace's forum

Hello all
     Ace Hobby and Thunder Tiger are offering at no charge, a parts upgrade kit for all original EK-4 owners for the first generation EK-4 purchased from any US Thunder Tiger dealer. Parts included are as follows:
-Larger cylinder head
-Improved back plate
-Upgraded carb parts (venturi, low speed needle and fuel inlet)
-Clutch w/spring
-Header gaskets w/ screws and nuts
-Pivot ball (4)
-Complete front and rear differentials
-Suspension plates, front and rear

     To obtain parts, please fax a copy of your original receipt (must be from authorized TT dist), along with your name, shipping address and daytime phone number to 949-833-0003. Please make it to the attention of Customer Service and be sure to write a note that the reason for the fax is for the EK-4 Upgrade Parts. Parts will be sent ground by UPS only.

***If you are not the original owner or do not have your original receipt and still would like the parts
upgrade, contact your local Thunder Tiger dealer for more information.***

Doug Henke
Customer Service
Ace Hobby Dist.

the only kicker is that the upgrade is not available
outside the U.S.

Ofna Titan

Titan not shifting
Illustration by Pie

Written by MPDano
I took my clutch cam apart and noticed that the notch was there (perfect). I found that my spring was not moving as you adjust the set screw. I took the spring out and did a little routing with my dremel to make it easier for the spring to move and slapped it all together. Oh, I also drilled my purple alum clutch shoes. OMG, it kicks a$# now and it actually shifts. It lights up my Road Rage tires with no problem. I am so happy now. It had so much torque, it snapped the pin in the rear cvd.

Written by Alexb
We here on Ofna Titan Forums have found out why the titan is stuck in second, if u are stuck in first i now know why... u have to take your two speed apart(the three gears on top of the chassis) when u see the cam u will see two holes one is for the adjustment of the shift point, the other is a set screw to hold the cam in place on the shaft running through the 2 speed, i believe that if your titan is stuck in first then the setscrew has backed out and the cam is spinning freely, what u want to do is put some red loctite on the set screw and lock the cam onto the shaft, if u take your 2 speed apart and u find that it can be taken off the shaft then the set screw is not locked down, if it is not locked down your titan will never shift into second, this happened with my titan, for the first few weeks it was shifting then all of a sudden it would no longer shift, today after getting fed up i took it apart and found that the setscrew had backed out even with loctite on it from the factory, to fix just put some red loctite on the set screw and put the cam back in let the loctite cure for about 12 hours, worked for me.

Titan Deluxe Kit Upgrade
Submitted by Misio

Just went to Ace Hardware for info on some titan upgrades and what I find out. They have the deluxe kit for $49.99 Titan To Deluxe Conversion Part # OFN40263
Click Here

Convert .25 Titan to Drill Start
Written by Bernie
IKARUSCANAD.COM

Parts you will need
-Heli hex Starter with 6mm hole for the shaft on the Motor...
-Dremel tool with a Drum wheel ...
-Drill bit for the housing (old pull start)
-1 small sheet metal screw to plug the hole were the pull rope came out before.

Instructions
1) disassemble pull start
2) grind a flat spot on the shaft were the screw (setscrew) will sit from the hex adapter (otherwise it will spin when you try to start it)
3) install hex adapter (use red loctite)
4) drill 7/16 hole in the pull start housing
5) insert the small sheet metal in the hole of the pull start housing.
6) reinstall housing.
7) get a 6mm ball end Allen head at the hardware store and cut the end off so it fits into a cordless drill.
NOTE: it has to be Ball end so you don't run into a problem.
any questions please ask.... bernie@ikaruscanada.com

Ofna Titan Factory Updates

EVENT III. TITAN FACTORY ANNOUNCEMENT - 10/06/02
ACTION 3.01: CORRECT FACTORY ADJUSTMENT OF 2-SPEED TRANSMISSION IN TITAN MONSTER TRUCK.

(a) PROBLEM - THE FACTORY ASSEMBLED THE FIRST 500 TITAN SHIPMENT INCORRECTLY REGARDING THE 2-SPEED TRANSMISSION. THE 2-SPEED CAM SHOULD HAVE BEEN PRE-SET, BUT INSTEAD WAS TURNED IN TOO MUCH. THIS ADJUSTMENT WILL STOP THE FIRST GEAR FROM ENGAGING AND WILL USE ONLY THE SECOND GEAR.

(b) ADJUSTING - TO CORRECT THE BEFORE MENTIONED PROBLEM - SEE FIGURE 3.02 3.02, TO CORRECTLY SET THE ADJUSTMENT TO FACTORY SETTING. YOU MUST DO THIS BEFORE STARTING!

IF 2-SPEED FAILS TO RESPOND TO YOUR ADJUSTMENTS, PLEASE CALL OFNA TECHNICAL SUPPORT AT 949.586.2910 EXT:226.

(c) NEW SPRING - YOU CAN GET A NEW 2-SPEED CAM SPRING BY CALLING OFNA AND FAXING A COPY OF YOUR RECEIPT - THIS OFFER IS ONLY GOOD DURING OCT TO NOV 30TH. YOU WILL NEED A SPRING IF YOU CAN NOT GET THE 2-SPEED TO ADJUST OR KEEP IN ADJUSTMENT.

ACTION: 3.02: CHECK LOCKTIGHT ON DRIVE CUPS SET SCREWS

(a) ASSEMBLY - SOME DRIVE CUPS SET SCREWS, ON TITAN CHASSIS, WERE NOT TIGHTENED DOWN WITH LOCKTIGHT.

(b) CORRECT - CHECK THE FOUR LOWER DRIVE CUP SCREWS AND RE-TIGHTEN WITH LOCKTIGHT. WHEN DOING THIS, TAKE CARE TO ENSURE THE SET SCREW IS SEATED ON THE FLAT OF THE OUTPUT SHAFT. IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY, THE SHAFT WILL SPIN AND THE TRUCK WILL LOSE DRIVE. IT IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO CHECK THESE SCREWS BEFORE AND AFTER EVERY USE.

Shock MOD against CVD/Dogbone breaking
Written by MetalMaxx

It occured to me that by simply using some fuel line one can limit the maximum shock compression and thus prevent the CVDs from locking (and subsequently breaking) in full-compressed position.

So, cut 4 pieces of fuel line of approximately 1cm each for the front shocks and 4 pieces of approximately 1,5 cm for the rear shocks.

Then slip the line on the shock shafts e.g. by using those classic Tamiya wheelnut-wrenches...

Well here's some pics:

The only tough thing to do is getting the Shock Plastic Rod Ends off the Shock Shafts... OFNA put loctite on it, but you guys are strong, aren't you ?

Thanks for your interest
Florian

HPI Savage

Free Rolling Troubles
Written by Stupac30

If your Savage will not roll in reverse, the screw shaft (86094) that holds the clutch holder (86091) in place likes to work itself loose. All you have to do is unscrew it and the locktite it back in.

Rubbing
Written by Stupac30

If your exhaust manifold is rubbing on the frame, cut a piece of fuel tubing in half lengthwise and put it over the frame. This eliminates anymore grinding through the frame and rattling. Do the same to the fuel tank. Put some kind of padding underneath it to prevent it from smacking against the frame and cracking.

Skid Plate
Written by Subarally

This not necessarily a skid plate but more to keep all of the debris from packing up in front of the rear diff housing. I used a 1/8" thick piece of Kydex and cut a groove in the edges so it can't move side to side. A few tie wraps hold it into place. I will probably only be temporary until someone comes out with an alloy part.

Tranny Lube
Written by 6victor6

Although HPI says the tranny doesn't need grease, there ARE metal to metal gears in there.. If you feel inclined to grease them, there is no need to take the tranny apart. Pop the small end of the rubber plug (two-speed adjustment) out. The metal gears in question are right there. Use a zip-tie or a syringe to apply some grease.

Savage Transmission Class 101 - w/ second gear mod
Written by Savaged

With the explosion of newly or soon to be released Monster Big Block engines ( or even MoldyMarvins custom fabricated dual big block axle twister )- the drivetrain components of the Savage will be taking a huge beating. So far, the Savage drivetrain (minus the stock dogbones) has proven to be more than a match for the awesome HP/Torque numbers that these engines are putting out. In any case- beefing up the drivetrain internals is a good idea as a means of preventative maintenance, rather than waiting for it to break and possibly causing costlier damage. So far, HD dogbones, CVD's, and 4 spider gear diff mods have been the usual upgrades performed by most. But here's another one that's cheap and fairly easy (especially with the photo illustrations). On the other hand, it requires the complete removal and tear down of the transmission. So I wouldn't recommend doing this mod until the transmission is out of the truck for one reason or another (TVP upgrade, transmission maintenance kit installation, or perhaps even the 2 speed setscrew/screwshaft backing out). The mod simply requires the addition of a second screwshaft inside of the second gear drum. The screwshaft itself is the same one used in the transmission output drivecups (front and rear) that have been known to break causing you to have a front or rear wheel drive only Savage. This screwshaft inside of the second gear drum is what the 2 speed hub latches onto once the centrifical force inside of the hub is enough to overcome the spring pressure that dictates when 2nd gear is actually engaged. In stock form, the Savage tranny has only 1 screwshaft used for 2nd gear engagement. That means, when second gear kicks in (sometimes violently with high HP engines or in loose gravel with lots of wheel spin), the same screwshaft is absorbing the punishment over and over again each time 2nd gear locks on. Adding a second screwshaft will add a second shaft for the 2nd speed hub to latch onto therefore dividing the wear and the possiblillty of it's failure by 2. This can be beneficial to those running HIGH HP Super Mondo Big Block engines or those who plan on getting one. So lets get started.... The first thing to do is remove the transmission from the truck. See Picture 1:

Being an automotive technician by trade- the terminology used to explain the internal parts of the Savage tranny is the same terminology used in full size 1:1 transaxles. I've labeled each part to help indicate which parts I'm referring to.

The second step is to split the transmission case open- you'll need to remove the transmission output drivecups, brake disc adapter, and brake disc.
See Picture 2:

1st and 2nd gear are both riding on the mainshaft. 1st gear rides on a one-way clutch- which basically means, the clutch engages in one direction and releases in another. 2nd gear rides on the mainshaft on a sealed roller bearing. Both 1st and 2nd gear is being driven at the same time by the drive gears on the input shaft but since 1st gear has a 1 way clutch, the mainshaft is rotated by 1st gear only. To access the 2nd gear drum, the output shaft must first be removed to allow the mainshaft and all of it's gears to slide out of the case.
See Picture 3:

When the truck is accellerating- first gear (being driven by the input shaft) grabs onto the mainshaft via the one-way clutch and rotates it at the 1st speed gear ratio (18/44). Although 2nd gear is also being driven by the input shaft, it is only rotating in place riding on its dedicated ball bearing. Once the mainshaft is spinning fast enough, the centrifical force inside of the 2nd gear hub (which is located inside of the 2nd gear drum) allows a cam lever to to overcome a user set spring pressure and pop out catching the screwshaft inside of the 2nd gear drum. 2nd gear is now driving the mainshaft VIA the cam lever on the 2nd speed hub and rotates the mainshaft at an even faster 2nd gear ratio (23/39). Since the mainshaft is turning faster than the 1st gear ratio- the one way clutch releases the mainshaft. The mainshaft drive gear (idler gear) is in constant mesh with the output shaft drive gear- the faster the mainshaft rotates, the faster the output shaft rotates. That's basically how the transmission operates and how it shifts from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd back down to 1st (if the mainshaft speed slows down where spring pressure is strong enough to push the cam lever back in, 2nd gear will be released and the the one way clutch (1st gear) will now be driving the mainshaft).

To access the 2nd gear drum- use a small flat blade screwdriver to pop out the retaining E clip on the end of the mainshaft. Slide out the drive gear (idler gear) and pin, slide out 1st gear (note theres a thin washer/shim between 2nd gear and the 1st gear one way clutch). Slide the mainshaft and 2nd speed hub out of the 2nd gear drum. All your left with is the 2nd gear drum in your hand. You should be able so see where the 2nd screwshaft can be installed- note that the screwshaft should be countersunk into the 2nd gear drum to avoid contact with the 1st gear one way clutch housing. (see your instruction manual)
See Picture 4 and 5

The shiftpoint adjustment in the transmission basically adjust how much spring pressure is applied to the cam lever. The more pressure that is applied (clockwise adjustment), the faster the mainshaft has to rotate to produce enough centrifical force to over come it to engage 2nd gear.

Follow the procedure in reverse for reassembly however, I'd recommend adding a dab of low grade removable Loctite (222) to all of the screws or screwshafts that thread into metal surfaces. With the transmission apart- now is a good time to clean off the one way clutch (which can often slip allowing the engine to rev without 1st gear engagement). Also, now is a good time to replace the original screwshaft in the 2nd gear drum and also the screw shaft that locks the 2nd speed hub onto the mainshaft (this is the one that often backs out- not allowing your Savage to roll backwards, and leaving you without a 2nd gear- It's especially critical to add a dab of loctite to this one!). Upgrades and/or repairs can be performed at this time to replace worn transmission output drive cups, install an alloy disc brake adapter, perform a dual disc modification, install the HB Titianium Output shaft or HPI lightweight input shaft drive gears. It's also a good time to look at the transmission internals to get familiar with how it works...

Savage Differential Upgrade
Written by jet blast

Differential upgrade to 4 spider gears, instead of the stock 2 spider set up:

The 2 spider gears in the diffs have 10T which is the same as the Kyosho Inferno gears. I used these shafts:

Kyosho Bevel Shaft Inferno

and added 2 spider (some call them "small bevel") gears per diff for a total of 4 in each diff

You can use a bevel kit from HPI but each kit only has 2 spider gears, if you get this Kyosho kit then you get 4 spider gears which is just right--2 more per diff:

Kyosho Differential Bevel Set MP-7.5

Some 10,000 weight oil and I now have a set of worthy 1/8 diffs in my Savage

Buggy Servo Saver Set Up
Written By CRSMP5
Savage-Central

There are 2 reasons i went for this set up. The first is it can be adjusted for torque losses thru the servo saver vs the Kimbrough#124 that can not be.The 2nd reason is my life span with the 124 I get around a gallon before it gets sloppy loose. There is a 3rd reason for someone who has not gotten the ball bearings for the pieces, the one includes them and give the oppertunity to do that upgrade at the same time and be equal cost to buying the 124 and the bearings.
There are 2 reasons i went for this set up. The first is it can be adjusted for torque losses thru the servo saver vs the Kimbrough#124 that can not be.The 2nd reason is my life span with the 124 I get around a gallon before it gets sloppy loose. There is a 3rd reason for someone who has not gotten the ball bearings for the pieces, the one includes them and give the oppertunity to do that upgrade at the same time and be equal cost to buying the 124 and the bearings.

A is the main part you are looking for, it is a premade steering servo that replaces one of the stock bell cranks for the steering set up. There are 4 options i know will fit at this time, the Ofna Monster Pirate being the best, all the way to they Kyosho set up pictured.

Ofna 18098 Monster Pirate, comes with ball bearings for all 4 belcranks

Ofna 18034 Monster Pirate, comes with bushings

Kyosho IF-018 mp-5, this one does not include bearings, or the ability to have them in the servo saver section.

Both are around $20 and you can use one if you cannot get the other..

The 4th option is the most expensive, but Kyosho IFW-04, its blue in color though, but also like $40

I had a debate on what i wanted to use for a servo arm to it, i debated about using a Ofna Plastic arm, or a aluminum one (Ofna 10752).. i went for the aluminum one, just for knowing there will be 0 flex in it. The only flex in the system should now be the Part A above, and the balls in the rod links.

The set up is pretty simple

A is the servo saver
B The standard cross bar rod is now on top of the bell crank. I used one of my old chassis screws Z632 (m4x10mm self tapping) and left it a 1/4 turn loose as to prevent locking the joint up.
C is the spring that makes it work. You can shim it to increase tension also, lets say some big wheels and you are loosing all your torque thru the servo saver, you can shim it at this point to reduce how much you loose.

E is the E-clip that holds the servo saver together for shimming purposes

Thats how it looks all put together on the bottom of the radio box. This is a little more difficult than the throttle linkage set up, so i give it a 2 out of 10 on dificulty. The difficult aspect is just in the idea you need a assortment of screws to use for attaching the servo to the new servo saver. Im glad i had my fender kit!!

New Throttle servo rod set up
Written By CRSMP5
Savage-Central

Well after being fed up with how porly the throttel servo set up works and after buying a buggy came up with the parts to use to build a buggy style set up on the savage..

Ofna 10724

they make other colors too
yellow 10721
pink 10722
orange 10723
purpal 10725

the set up takes about 15min to complete, i give it a 1 out of 10 on the hard to easy scale, cost is like 8$

you have to drill 1 hole, there is a casting mark in the brake arm the right size to drill even!

i did a boo boo here the bolt needs to be turned upside down or it HITS the TVP.. but thats how the piece looks on the servo arm.. thats the hardest part.. the bolt is even supplied in the servo kit..

thats how the set up looks on the servo at rest, i used the 2 extra set screw clamps on the brake rod, much better adjustment over the plastic nut thinggy, the 2nd one closer to the roll bar is set so if the brakes were to lock into the on position, when full throttle given it will unlock the brakes..

thats what the set up looks like in braking position.. note how the throttle spring shrinks down to size to prevent servo lock up...

thats what full throttle looks like..

the kit supplys a long rod, and ball end with a ball and nut also, the rod needs a slight bend, nothing major, and the ball and nut fits thru the stock hole..

i will be testing this out this weekend also, along with the GMP 51t spur gear, in the last pic, but so far i expect it to work much better than the stock set up, i no longer have a sloppy throttle position on my servo, it seems to feel better on the brakes too, but testing will tell..

New Tank Mod
Written by 32ford
Savage-Central

I finally got a chance to run my new tank set-up today. As expected it works fantastic. The dual pick-up mod I came up with a while back was a step in the right direction, but, I was not 100% satisfied with it. It worked ok, but had it's own problems. The new header tank blows it away.

Here are some things I don't like about the new set-up: It's bulky and kinda an eye sore. On the first fill of the day you have to pump fuel into the header first.

Things I like: The truck ran consistent temps from full to empty, within 5 degrees. I was able to lean my mixture more because there was no compromise between a full or empty tank setting. I flipped the truck over and let it idle for 5 minutes. It never leaned out or richened up, it just layed there idling. I flipped it back over and off I went. You can run the main tank bone dry and it still has no tendancy to lean out.

Theory behind this tank set-up: The main tank keeps the header tank full at all times, which allows the engine to run consistently from full to empty off the main tank. I mounted the header tank center line as close to carb centerline as possible. By doing this, the carb doesn't have to struggle to suck fuel. Gravity is on it's side all the time, and actually helps to force feed the carb.

Part's needed:
12" piece of 1/2w .040 brass strap
Hayes 2oz fuel tank
About a foot of fuel line
3X12mm bolt
3mm lock nut
3 3mm washers
4mm spacer (use a 4mm length of fuel line)

Optional Parts:
6oz fuel bulb (for filling the header tank on the first run of the day)
T-fitting (I used a KSJ #419 T type fuel filter),
A fuel line plug (I used a primer knob I had left over from taking the primer out of a TC fuel tank.

You could just shove a 3mm bolt in it for a plug or buy a plug. Terra makes some nice ones)

If you decide to go with this mod, I believe you will find it is well worth the effort. My total cost was about $5.00 bucks, as all I had to purchase was the tank.

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